Selection Criteria for New Zealand Representation at Oceania competitions and World Youth Championships, 2017.
1.1 Eligibility Criteria
To be eligible for the CNZ Youth Team, all athletes must:
- Be a member of a Regional Club affiliated with Climbing New Zealand
- Compete in a minimum of two Climbing New Zealand competitions in the year previous to the selection year
- Commit to competing in a minimum of three Climbing New Zealand competitions during the selection year in the discipline(s) in which the athlete is selected for
- Be eligible to hold a New Zealand Passport
It is the responsibility of the athlete and their respective parent / guardian (if applicable) to ensure that the athlete in question meets the eligibility criteria outlined above.
2. Athlete Selection
2.1 New Zealand Oceania Team Selection
This applies to athletes in all youth and open categories.
The selection of athletes is determined by the ranking of each athlete for their age, as of the 31st of December of each year. The scores of the best of the minimum number of events specified in clause 1.1 contribute to the final ranking.
The number of athletes selected in each age category is dependent on the average number of competitors in National levels events for the event. Where there are an average of four or less competitors of the same age, the top ranked competitor is selected. Where there are five to eight competitors, the top two competitors are selected and where there are more than eight competitors, the top three competitors are selected. For example, a Youth B category may have 15 competitors, six aged 14 and nine aged 15 at the end of the year. The top two members aged 14 and top three members aged 15 would be selected.
The ranking for each age is determined by the athlete’s placing in the qualifying rounds and the final, with a weighting of 50% for the average placing in the qualifying rounds and 50% for the placing in the finals. For example, an athlete who places third for their age after the qualifying rounds and wins the final would be given a score of 2 ((3+1)/2). Likewise, the athlete who is first after the qualifying rounds and comes fifth in the final round would be given a score of 3 ((1+5)/2).
2.2 Selection for the World Youth Championships
2.2.1 Automatic selection
This applies to athletes in Youth B, Youth A and Junior categories only in the year of World Youth Championship competition.
Automatic selection applies to:
- Those who reached the semi-finals in their specified event at the World Youth Climbing Championship in the previous year of competition.
- Those who have placed first or second at the Oceania Championships in the previous year.
This will apply even where a climber will be competing in a different age category the following year.
Those selected by this process are still expected to compete in the minimum number of Climbing New Zealand Competitions in that year, as specified in clause 1.1. They are also expected to attend the selection event specified in section 2.2.2.
2.2.2 Selection of Team Members not selected automatically
Non-automatic selection is based on performance at a selection event. Only members of the NZ Oceania team are eligible to attend the selection event.
Candidates will be required to climb 2 routes each. Selection is based on the results on one onsight attempt per route. The difficulty of the routes will vary from 24 – 28+, with specific routes set for age categories. Each route includes the top hold and marked bonus hold. The following achievements are required for selection:
Category Expected Grade Range Results Required
Junior Female 24-28 1 Top and 1 Bonus
Junior Male 25-28+ 1 Top and 1 Bonus
Youth A Female 24-28 1 Top and 1 Bonus
Youth A Male 25-28+ 1 Top and 1 Bonus
Youth B Female 24-27 1 Top and 1 Bonus
Youth B Male 24-28 1 Top and 1 Bonus
Selection for bouldering will be based on the performance in a World Cup format boulder competition, with four problems to be completed, each within 5 minutes, with a 5 minute rest interval between problems. The following performances are required:
Category Expected Grade Range Results Required
Junior Female V6 – V8 3 Top & 4 Bonus
Junior Male V7 – V8+ 3 Top & 4 Bonus
Youth A Female V5 – V7 3 Top & 4 Bonus
Youth A Male V6-V8 3 Top & 4 Bonus
Youth B Female V3-V6 3 Top & 4 Bonus
Youth B Male V5-V7 3 Top & 4 Bonus
22.214.171.124 Speed climbing
PLEASE NOTE: There is currently no Oceania or World Team selection for this discipline
Climbers that wish to compete in the speed event will be required to attempt a standard speed wall, completing the runs under the allotted time.
Category Maximum Time
Junior Female 13 seconds
Junior Male 11 seconds
Youth A Female 14 seconds
Youth A Male 12 seconds
Youth B Female 15 seconds
Youth B Male 13 seconds
If the selection event is held in the preceding year to the competition, athletes will be assessed in accordance to the age group category the athlete will be competing in. For example, a selection event may be held towards the end of 2016 for selection for the 2017 World Youth Championships. An athlete born in 2001 and is competing in the Youth B category in 2016 would be assessed as a Youth A Climber, as this is the category the athlete would be competing in for the proposed competition.
2.3 Multiple Disciplines
Team members can represent New Zealand in more than one discipline, but are only eligible to enter the disciplines in which they have been selected for.
2.4 Selection Review
The New Zealand Head Coach and selection committee reserves the right to reassess the selection of athletes in cases where:
2.4.1 Athletes have conducted themselves in a manner which is inappropriate and/or may negatively affect the reputation of Climbing New Zealand.
2.4.2 Injury may limit performance in the events the athlete was selected for.
2.4.3 A significant decrease in effort, training and performance is observed. In this situation, the athlete will be provided with feedback and an opportunity to resolve any issue prior to reassessment of selection.
2.5. Discretionary selection
The selection committee can, at their discretion, select additional athletes in cases where:
2.5.1 There is very little difference in athlete ability, as assessed by athlete rankings for Oceania selection (section 2.1), or performance in the selection event for athletes not automatically selected for the World Youth Championships (section 2.2.2).
2.5.2 The likelihood of success for additional athletes is high.
2.5.3 Outstanding athletes were unable to or did not attend selection events.
Special exemption may be granted directly by the selection committee, or in response to an appeal for selection as detailed in section 4.
3. Selection Committee
The role of the Selection Committee is to review cases for discretionary selection (section 2.5) and to assess appeals from athletes (section 4).
A Selection Committee will comprise of the New Zealand Head Coach and two delegated members appointed by the CNZ committee.
Appeals regarding non-selection of athletes can, in the first instance, be lodged in writing to the Climbing New Zealand Committee. This must be submitted within 21 days of the public release of teams. If the appellant is dissatisfied with the outcome of the initial appeal, a further appeal can be lodged with the New Zealand Sports Tribunal.